Thursday, September 6, 2012

Hanoi, Vietnam (Another Jurassic Post)



It’s hard not to fall in love with Hanoi, translated as the land between rivers, and the capital of Vietnam. A rustic beauty sprawled over the picturesque expanse of North Vietnam and bounded by several rivers, the region is one of the world’s best kept secrets I guess for now.

As an architectural delight, Hanoi boasts of French influences and intricate structures remnants of the occupation of France and local wonders such as the One-Pillar Pagoda, Perfume Pagoda, Tran Vu Temple and the ancient university of Quoc Tu Giam-Van Mieu. As a cultural haven, the Ba Dinh square has the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh which still draws crowds by the hundreds and the Ba Dinh district is where the old citadel of Hanoi is located. As a historical landmark, the well-preserved ancient streets and olden buildings within their administrative district Hoan Kiem and around it still have deep marks of their storied past.


But aside from these powerful remembrance, Hanoi’s major pull is the idyllic laid-back lifestyle which includes old living quarters, schools and structures in the Dong Da, Tay Ho, Thanh Xuan and Cau Giay districts; the subdued landscape of their agricultural districts and the many lakes of countryside living that let you appreciate nature more plus the four seasons that Hanoi enjoys all throughout the year.


Flying There: Hanoi is visa-free as our country has bilateral agreements for visa exemption. There is now a direct flight from Manila to Hanoi via Cebu Pacific (www.cebupacificair.com) for as low as P7000+ roundtrip. Or you can also try the direct flights from Manila to Hanoi via out Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeair.com) USD 630+ depending on the season. It’s pricey but for those who want the luxury of big space, good food and wouldn’t mind paying more, it’s a good ride. Or you can book Ho Chi Minh via Cebu Pacific and get a domestic flight from there. Check out Vietnam Airlines and the low-cost Pacific Airlines.

Going Around: There are buses for longer travel, bicycle rickshaws for shorter trips and the easiest to take – the taxi cabs. Get the number of Hanoi Taxi or Taxi CP, you can call them anytime and let you pick up anywhere within the city. Operators speak English, the few people who can in Hanoi. Most of the taxi drivers negotiate the fare so be wary when taking a cab besides these two taxi lines.


Current Rate: Dong is the currency in Hanoi US1 = 16,000VND. But no worries if you haven’t exchanged your US dollars to their local unit, all business establishments accept US dollars.

Buying Stuff: Hanoi is also a shopping haven. The street between Hoan Kiem Lake and the Cathedral has shops with slightly lower prices than the tourist shopping destination of the Old Quarter. There are also smaller shops within the city, try the one bearing the name ‘Made in Vietnam’ and the Dong Xuan Market for the largest wholesale and retail center. It is also usual for a whole street or district in Hanoi to sell the same kind of products; shoes in one street and bicycle accessories in another street. Remember to bargain! There are only two major shopping malls in Hanoi, Trang Tien Plaza and the Vincom City Towers. Curfew is at 10pm and all businesses strictly follow it.

Food Tripping: Their food is one of the healthiest, common staple is vegetable, fruits and rice. Usually boiled or involved many ingredients. Try their pickled eggplant, papaya salad, spring rolls, banh hoi, thin rice vermicelli served cold with grilled marinated pork and fish sauce, the chicken noodle soup Pho Ga and the beef noodle soup Pho Bo. Because they were a French colony before, Vietnamese baguette or French bread with paté has become the workers’ fave ‘anytime food’. Interesting sight is that they huddle around street corners for their meals anytime of the day, chatting while eating in makeshift tables and chairs. For fruits, try their Longan, Mangosteen and Dragonfruit.

Visit Moka Café, Paris Deli for Italian meal, Somerset for pasta dishes and the contemporary Restaurant Bobby Chinn which is owned by the Travel & Living host with the same name. No Starbucks yet but they have local coffee shop called Highlands Coffee anywhere. For those who love McDo, sorry there is only one international fastfood chain in the whole of Hanoi -- KFC.

Visiting Sites: Hanoi is an all-season tourist destination. The famous Ha Long Bay, one of UNESCO’s world’s natural wonders for its universal aesthetic value has over 3,000 breathtaking islands set in pristine emerald green water. The bay has thousands of limestone karsts and isles in various sizes and shapes. Visit the surrounding caves, jungles and grotto. The two largest islands Cat Ba and Tuan Chau have permanent residents with hotels and facilities where you can stay overnight. Ha Long Bay is around 2-3 hours away from the city, so book the tour with your hotel as this will save time finding it or getting there. Also check with the local tourism authority for the legitimate fees, official tour guides and guidelines. Ha Long Bay along with our famous landmarks is also nominated as the World's 7 New Natural Wonder. Just a reminder, everything is expensive there so just bring your own water or junk foods. If you book a tour, usually the lunch is included but not the drinks.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum in Hanoi has the man himself entombed ala Marcos style. Talking is not allowed, showing sign of disrespect is apprehended, taking photos inside is prohibited and walking shorts or sleeveless top is a big no-no. I had to pay 100,000 dong for renting long pants so skip the skimpy and cover up.

Ho Chi Minh Museum and Vestige perfectly capture the days and nights in the life of Ho Chi Minh from 1954 until his death in 1969. The complex also includes two of Ho Chi Minh's houses, garage with Ho Chi Minh’s cars and a carp-filled pond.
Hundreds of historical, political and cultural sites surround Hanoi. Check out the Temple of Literature (founded in 1070 and the country's first university), the One Pillar Pagoda (charming old wooden temple on a single stone pillar), Museum of Ethnology (features the cultural and ritual practices of the Vietnamese ethnic groups), Hoan Kiem Lake (park in the center of town within short walking distance from the Old Quarter), the Downed Aircraft Memorial (a stone plaque commemorating the shooting down of a U.S. Navy aircraft in 1967 and where you can see the name of Republican bet John McCain as one of the listed officers) and the Hoa Lo Prison (also called as The Hanoi Hilton where captured Americans were imprisoned during the war). The Old Quarter is home to guesthouses and hostels for budget travelers. But if you’re traveling with a group or have extra moolah to spare, try their hotels instead for they offer really low prices. Around P2000+ per night per room including buffet breakfast for 3 pax). Check out Hanoi Pacific Hotel and Church Hotel.

Make sure you take a lot of pictures and socialize with the locals. It’s a fun experience. Though they speak little English, they are respectful and always have a ready smile for tourists. So when I say it’s hard not to fall in love with Hanoi, I mean it from the bottom of my heart and who wouldn’t. Visit Hanoi and fall in love now!

Photos courtesy of Marl Abejero

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